Headed into the hills to visit two Neolithic towns, Dhimini and Seskla. Dhimini first, a hill crowned with six circular stone walls. These were foundations for wooden houses with painted mud interiors. It's thought the walls were not needed for defence as the stone age farmers did not have time to fight each other. Until the coming of metal and money, there seems to have been no hierarchy, just collaboration. Dhimini has a street and houses of specialist potters and toolmakers. Some elegant pottery finds, too. Max population was 200 or maybe 300.
On towards Seskla, passing an amazing Mycenaean tomb. They unlocked it to let me in. It's the grand-daddy of the thole tomb I lunched at yesterday, but this one still has its complete dome, felt around 15 feet high. Awe-inspiring.
Hilly and tough going on the tiny, rough road up to Seskla. In the end, the road was so precipitate going down it felt as if the laden rear end of the bike might cartwheel over my head. Resolved to walk on the way back from this dead end to Seskla. Holes, gravel, sand and tractors added to the fun.
Seskla is 2000 years older than Dhimini. Very helpful curators with an adorable sheepdog puppy gave me a seat, chilled water and lots of info. Excellent audio guide, all funded by EU. Again, staggering to walk round walls 7000 years old, still about 2 feet high.
Walked some of the way back up the moth-eaten hill. Set off to Larisa across the plain. Spent an hour negotiating the motorway and side roads. Had fun carrying the bike over the sides of a bridge, this being the only gap in the barrier of the horrific main road I was stuck on. This let me walk down a hill to a minor road not on my map, which felt much safer.
Had to keep at it at top speed, non-stop to make the 40 km before dark. At one moment had to jump off the road to avoid a truck overtaking on the other side of the road. The truck missed me by feet but unfortunately the edge of the road was 9 inches below the road. Ouch, bike on top of me. Better than a truck, anyway.
Found a hotel after some searching. Stocked up on food (more weight, bah). Still amazed by the ruins. Superb!
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