Having seen all the monasteries, I chose to walk into the hills and escape the tourists. Starting on the same monopatia as yesterday, I passed Aghia Triados and at the top turned left instead of right.
Climbing the path a second time I saw a few different things... There are holly oaks everywhere, with tiny leaves like holly and magnificent, large acorns. I suppose it makes sense, the small, tough leaves to defend against a harsh environment and a good start in life for the acorns that fall on such thin soil. This time I notice a smattering of different trees.. Some normal (though stunted) oaks; a hawthorn scarlet with berries but bare of leaves; elms only three feet high that could be any age.
The road forks and I can finally leave the tourist circuit. At the turn there is a deafening dawn chorus: as before it seems the mountains have delayed the sun and given the birds a lie-in. There are goldfinches wolfing seeds from huge thistles and trilling happily. There seem to be a lot of robins and blackbirds, but with all the oaks it is perhaps more woodland than mountain...it's just that the woods are four feet high.
As I head up on the smaller road towards Vlachaba, the next village, I finally see something I've been missing, jays (who love acorns). They cackle around in pairs all over the hillside.
The walk is beautiful, peaceful and fairly consistently uphill. Just before the village I turn back, a little worried about getting back in the light. I broke my watch early on, so estimate the time by the feel of the light. as I turn I reckon it is about 2pm. Since it's downhill on the way back, I can expect it to be quicker going back. I've come about 10km, which in the end makes this a fairly long walk: Google says 28km by road so I probably did 20 or 22k in all, allowing for the footpaths.
I must stop having energetic rest days!
I take a different monopatia on the way back, as recommended by Giannis. I have now seen every side of Meteora, literally, by bike and on foot. In some way this makes me feel I understand the essence of the mountains' shape.
The big picture of my walk is that feel for the surroundings, and seeing the characteristic pillars of rock dwindle to miniatures as I walk to the next mountain.
The gems of detail are gentians, hawks, butterflies and jays.
The monopatia brings me into Kalambaka close to the hotel. Another hour's walk takes me down to the train station to check that I can get to Kato Tithoreia, a good start point for cycling to Delphi. This time I am told I may be able to take a bike, but I shall have to ask the station-master on the day.
Legs are aching when I get back. Bah, rest days!
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